Nevern (Nanhyfer)

On the journey to St.David's (Ty Ddewi), at the edge of the most westerly peninsular of Wales, through largely unspoiled and peaceful countryside, the traveller may discern on the flanks of the Preseli hills a large quarry from where the famous inner circle of blue stones at Stonehenge were taken so many centuries ago. A short detour will also bring us to Pentre Ifan, one of the finest and most impressive Neolithic cromlechs in Britain and to St Brynach's Church at Nevern, (Nanhyfer), a little village tucked away in the valley of the river Nyfer. Brynach is also known as Brynach Wyddel (the Irishman), though he was a native of Pembrokeshire and spent many years in Britanny following a pilgrimage to Rome. On his feast day, 7 April, it is said that the first cuckoo arriving in Wales sings its very first song from the top of l3-ft high elaborately-patterned Great Celtic cross, dating from the tenth century, and perhaps the finest in Wales.

The church itself is on the site of one of the earliest Christian places of worship in the country, founded in the 5th century by St. Brynach after he is said to have spoken with angels on the summit of nearby Mynydd Carningli (The Mount of Angels). It became an important stopping place for pilgrims on the way from Holywell in the northeast, to St. David's in the southwest. It is from this time that the Celtic word Llan appears, signifying a church settlement and usually followed by the name of a saint, as in Llandewi (St. David) or Llangurig (St. Curig), but sometimes by the name of a disciple of Christ, such as Llanbedr (St. Peter) or even a holy personage such as Llanfair (St. Mary).

The churchyard contains a magnificent line of ancient "bleeding yews" and cypress trees. One of the church's famous collection of Celtic memorial stones, to Maelgwyn, and now found inside the building, is inscribed in both Latin and Ogham script. Near the church, In a little leafy, narrow lane, cut into a rock, is a wayside pilgrim's cross where travelers stopped to pray for a safe journey. We now continue our own journey to the tiny city of St. David's.